Leaving Verdun that morning I was passed by cyclists twice my age left and right. My knees and ankles were still fairly sore but was glad I could cycle at all though I was sorry I hadn't be able to see the sights. Maybe reader may be able to tell me if they still have these horrific postcards on sale? I remember one with a soldier blown into a tree top and one of a chap with half his face shot off though he's still alive. Is there still a demand for that kind of products in this day and age? I don't have the ones I bought back in the seventies anymore.
Very deep, symbolic picture of an unlucky owl
The 45 kms went to quite unimposing scenery and I wasn't motivated to pursue any sideroads, I wanted to be in the destination and rest. Luckily I was there at noon and found a lovely room in 'Le cheval rouge' and slept for a couple of hours.
Later that afternoon I took a tour in the surroundings and saw some remnants from the battles in Argonne, the most notable was the 'Kaisertunnel' in the woods North-East of ste. Menehould.
Gun pits close to the Kaisertunnel Verdun- Sainte-Ménehould (45 kms)
The woods on both sides of these hill crestst in Argonne were totally wasted in 1918, now they are the loveliest sites to cycle and trek, with interesting birdlife. It takes lots of reading, a good guide and plenty of imagination to get something like an impression of the actual state of affairs in less fortunate days.
In what was later called 'the Kaiser's tunnel', there's the possibility to go on a tour with local guides, who speak excellent French.
Part of the tunnel complex under these Argonne hills
Very deep, symbolic picture of an unlucky owlThe 45 kms went to quite unimposing scenery and I wasn't motivated to pursue any sideroads, I wanted to be in the destination and rest. Luckily I was there at noon and found a lovely room in 'Le cheval rouge' and slept for a couple of hours.
Later that afternoon I took a tour in the surroundings and saw some remnants from the battles in Argonne, the most notable was the 'Kaisertunnel' in the woods North-East of ste. Menehould.
Gun pits close to the Kaisertunnel Verdun- Sainte-Ménehould (45 kms)In what was later called 'the Kaiser's tunnel', there's the possibility to go on a tour with local guides, who speak excellent French.
Part of the tunnel complex under these Argonne hillsDuring the the first stage of the war, like elsewhere, things grinded into a stalemate and the dugouts became increasingly extensive. The Germans even started to dig into the mountain which amounted to a complex of tunnels linking a hospital kitchen, sleeping facilities, ammo dumps, command rooms and a place where men wounded beyond any chance of recovery were left to die, the 'Sterbezimmer'.
The Sterbezimmer of the Kaiser Tunnel's complex
The Sterbezimmer of the Kaiser Tunnel's complexWhile the war raged over their heads, deep down the men like true 'Nibelungen' dug out an underground empire. Unlike the original Nibelheim, little gold was dug and processed here.
On the way back back to ste. Menehoulde, one passes the tomb of the Garibaldi brotheres, indeed sons of Giuseppe, who volunteered and died in this region during the early stage of the war.
On the way back back to ste. Menehoulde, one passes the tomb of the Garibaldi brotheres, indeed sons of Giuseppe, who volunteered and died in this region during the early stage of the war.
Monument to the brothers Garibaldi
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